La minute de la texturgie n° 9 - juin 2017

(créer de nouvelles matières sensibles en combinant textures textiles et technologie)

The gossip of “texturgie”: creating new sensitive matters by combining textile textures and technology

Prize for Deployable Roof

TUM student Katrin Fleischer won the first prize in the category macro architecture at the competition "Textile Structures for New Building 2017" with a design developed as part of the "Experimental Structures" project at the Chair for Structural Design in summer semester 2016. This mobile canopy consists of a folding support grid in the form of a barrel vault. An integrated membrane covering is held under tension by bending active slats.

Deployable roof, credit: Katrin Fleischer

New process for 3D printing of cellulose

While cellulose is biodegradable, biorenewable, biocompatible, mechanically robust and chemically very versatile, on heating it thermally decomposes before becoming flowable, partially due to hydrogen bonds between the cellulose molecules. This intermolecular bonding makes high-concentration cellulose solutions very viscous and therefore not easy to extrude. However, two scientists at MIT have developed a new method that could provide a viable alternative to the polymers currently used in 3D printing materials, with potential applications in the many industries that use cellulosic materials and would benefit from the customization that additive manufacturing brings.


To demonstrate the chemical versatility of the production process, MIT researchers added an extra dimension to the innovation. By adding a small amount of antimicrobial dye to the cellulose acetate ink, they 3-D-printed a pair of surgical tweezers with antimicrobial functionality. Courtesy of the MIT researchers.

Sense of touch with synthetic skin

Human skin is an incredibly complex system capable of detecting pressure, temperature and texture through an array of neural sensors which carry signals from the skin to the brain. Engineers from the University of Glasgow, who have previously developed an ‘electronic skin’ covering for prosthetic hands made from graphene, have found a way to use some of graphene’s remarkable physical properties to use energy from the sun to power the skin.

Tactile feedback of electronic skin, courtesy of University of Glasgow researchers

La minute de la texturgie n° 8 - avril 2017

Mathematics + design = visual drama

The science and art of mathematics comes together dramatically in the redesigned Mathematics: The Winton Gallery at London’s Science Museum. Zaha Hadid Architects created the design in collaboration with curator David Rooney. The exhibit showcases 400 years of mathematics history from the renaissance to the present day. The aircraft is an inspiration for the gallery design. The layout and lines of the space represent airflow that would have surrounded the plane in flight.
The curved overhead structure was created by assembling fabric on powder-coated aluminum frames. It seems to fold in and out of itself around the gallery, like connecting air currents.


Dramatic fabric-covered structures demonstrate the mathematics behind the flow of air. Photos: Luke Hayes

Silk sensor could speed development of new infrastructure, aerospace and consumer materials

What is needed are new lightweight, energy-saving composites that won’t crack or break even after prolonged exposure to environmental or structural stress. To help make that possible, researchers working at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) have developed a way to embed a nanoscale damage-sensing probe into a lightweight composite made of epoxy and silk.
The probe, known as a mechanophore, could speed up product testing and potentially reduce the amount of time and materials needed for the development of many kinds of new composites.


Examples of the silk used in experiments, credit: Chelsea Davis and Jeremiah Woodcock/NIST

Amazon won a patent for an on-demand clothing manufacturing warehouse

Amazon was awarded a patent for an on-demand manufacturing system designed to quickly produce clothing — and other products — only after a customer order is placed. Once various textile products are printed, cut and assembled according to the orders, they can be processed through a quality check, photographed for placement in an electronic commerce system, shipped to customers and/or stored in a materials handling facility for order fulfillment.
Two of the inventors named in the patent are Aaron Barnet and Nancy Liang, co-founders of the 3-D printing startup Mixee Labs, who went to work at Amazon in 2015.


Textile manufacturing 4.0, Amazon patent 2017

La minute de la texturgie n° 7 - mars 2017

Smart fashion interview with Christine Browaeys, T3Nel,
by Rebecca Everett, currently studying Fashion Management at Nottingham Trent University in the UK

I noticed you were amongst the experts involved in the Premiere Visions’ conference on the theme, “Fashiontech, future scene or utopia”.


- Would you be able to explain a bit about what is T3Nel and what you do?

I embody a new kind of textile engineer, paraphrased in the term “texturgiste” (conveying new connections between textile textures and new technologies). I come from the world of ICT and I founded T3Nel in 2009 as a consulting office in the area of innovative textile materials.
Nota: the acronym T3Nel stands for "ICT, Textiles, new Technologies

- I am aware you have spoken at the Premiere vision conference in Paris on the 8th Februrary. Would you be able to explain briefly what you spoke about at the conference regarding the future of Fashiontech?

I tried to give an engineering outlook in the new mix of fashion and technology. Nowadays, we are living in a world pervaded by digital technologies. The world of digital technologies is quite intangible or insubstantial and I think textile can help to give a material form to the actual digital services provided. Textile is a way of creating a tangible connection to the world.
Furthermore, we must learn to design "calm technology", related to the notion of affordances, for a more humanly empowered twenty-first century.

- With all the research that has been done with innovative textile materials, what do you think are the textiles of the future?

I'm the author of “Challenges and opportunities of new textiles materials”, published by EDP Sciences in 2014. I try to demonstrate the central role played by these new textile materials which are nowadays of high relevance to all important industrial sectors.
Textile industry undergoes a revolution. Connected and smart textiles make currently the buzz and begin to be sustainable. Textile structures are drastically changing to new weaving and knitting process in 3D, new extensibility and drapability capabilities, and more and more advanced threads. Composite materials and hybrid materials are especially essential for the future of the textile sector.

- How do you think smart textiles can change the fashion industry?

Smartphone is made of plastic or metal which is not very stimulating with regards to our senses. With the present technologies we can just exchange with eyesight and hearing. We do not have the same perception as in a nearby space.
Textile will lend itself to load functions in the future and it will go further thanks to its sensual affinity.

- Could you say which brands/designers you think are doing well in the current smart clothing market?

Textile designer/artist plays a changing role in the society's transforming industrial production. An understanding of this role is important not only for designers/artists themselves and the future shape of our industrial production, but also for the needed and awaited transformation of the education curricula.
For instance, I would rather quote:
The education system is "obsolete" and fails to reflect the way creative people work, according to trend forecaster Li Edelkoort, who is introducing a new department of Hybrid Design Studies at Parsons School of Design in New York, which will encourage inter-disciplinary collaboration.

Marchesa designers and cofounders Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig teamed up with IBM's cognitive computing system Watson to design a “cognitive dress” that will be worn by a yet-to-be-named model. The dress is a data-driven garment whose embedded LED lights will change colors in real time, shifting with the social media mood of users.


Concept design by Marchesa (D_KEITH_2016_IBM_MARCHESA)

- Are there any smart materials that come to mind can help our planet that can be used to create clothing i.e. that are biodegradable that will reduce landfill?

The most basic building block of fabrics is fiber, and one of the most basic building blocks of life is carbon. Carbon fiber’s high strength and low weight makes it ideal for applications where the finished product needs to be as light and as strong as possible. But significant amounts of energy are used to achieve the high temperatures required in the production process used to create carbon fiber. This contributes to a relatively high cost of carbon when compared to other materials... It will be interesting to see where this technology goes and how it contributes to advancements in apparel.


Carbon fibers (picture courtesy of ITCF Dekendorf)

La minute de la texturgie n° 6 - février 2017

Sicomin supplies composite materials for new Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Paris

Sicomin has supplied a complete package of composite materials to produce both moulds and parts for the five-gilded domes of the recently inaugurated Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Paris. Working alongside Multiplasta, Sicomin was able to support in realizing architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte’s contemporary design.
The dome panels themselves were produced at Multiplast’s factory in Vannes. By combining their heavyweight quadaxial fabric style QX1180 with a woven 500gsm fabric, Sicomin was able to provide a laminate with no print through and excellent top surface flow characteristics.


Five-gilded domes of the Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Paris (picture courtesy of Sicomin)

A wearable sensor which enables visually impaired to sense their environment

VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland has developed a sensor device for the visually impaired. It enables them to sense their environment and move around in a safer manner. It works with a radar system developed by VTT. It monitors obstacles in front of it and passes the information to the user through vibrations or voice feedback.
VTT has developed Guidesense in partnership with the Kuopio University Hospital and the Finnish Federation of the Visually Impaired (FFVI).


Guidesense wearable sensor (picture courtesy of VTT Research)

Mega silk cluster will soon be set up on the outskirts of Mysuru, India

This is one of the six silk clusters to be set up across the country under the revised National Handloom Development Programme. Mysuru and its surrounding regions are known for sericulture, and the famed Mysore Silk has been accorded the Geographic Indication tag in view of its uniqueness. Twisting, yarn dying, warping, fabric dying and printing, and calendaring were among many functions that would be provided at the cluster.


Silk weaver (picture courtesy of Unnati silks)

La minute de la texturgie n° 5 - janvier 2017

Carbonbeton: Innovative Construction Material Awarded the Future Prize

Three scientists from the Dresden University of Technology have been awarded the Federal President’s ‘Future Prize’ for the development of ‘carbonbeton’ which is a robust and environmentally friendly alternative to reinforced concrete.
The material is economical, efficient and beautiful. Thousands of carbon fibres are formed into grids and coated with concrete. The result is incredibly thin plates. Carbonbeton is lighter, more durable and easier to mould than conventional steel. This fascinating material paves the way for a new building material to enter the market.


A futuristic bridge made with carbonbeton (picture courtesy of HTWK Leipzig)

Defined nozzle geometry determines fiber properties

The shape of the spinning channel determines the handling of the spinning process. It is not only an advanced optimization of spinnerets that was realized at the ITCF Denkendorf. As well cellulose fibers with completely new properties have been produced by using the dry-wet spinning process, thanks to scientific exchange with the Institute of Laser Technologies (IFSW) at the University of Stuttgart.


Laser-drilled spinneret made of 3 mm silicon nitride - Source: ITCF Denkendorf

Launch of the ART CHERIE project to exploit the fashion Cultural Heritage of EU fashion designers

The project, coordinated by EURATEX, addresses the issue of apprenticeships delivery in the fashion sector dominated by SME’s and micro enterprises. The objective of ART CHERIE project is to contribute to the protection and exploitation of the fashion Cultural Heritage; organize and structure it in vocational training courses for the improvement of EU fashion designers (Fashion designers working in T&C Industries and young fashion designers).
The ART CHERIE platform will respond to design skills and for that scope will concentrate information and digitalize material from Prato Textile Museum as the initial pilot.