La minute de la texturgie n° 42 - March 2021

(créer de nouvelles matières sensibles en combinant textures textiles et hautes technologies)

The gossip of “texturgie”: creating new sensitive matters by combining textile textures and high technologies

The textile dyeing industry is experiencing a global skills gap

77% of textile coloration professionals believe there is a widening skills gap in the dyeing industry, with 53% of agreeing this is now at crisis point, according to SDC (Society of Dyers and Colourists) survey.
Findings state that a third of global employers involved in dyeing and finishing are unable to recruit the talent that they need. Reasons for this were cited as young people having negative perceptions of the industry, or wanting to be designers rather than dyers, alongside a lack of knowledge of the chemistry behind the processes, as well as poorly promoted opportunities in dyeing.

Textile dyes & auxiliaries; © Grupo ADI

Dyeing or coating textile with NIR technology

New minimum application, digital spray or rotor application textile dyeing and coating technologies claim major resource savings in terms of water, energy and chemicals. But the technology of Adphos, based in Heufeld near Munich, however, goes much further.
In the adphosNIR wavelength range, most plastics and synthetic fibres have a high radiation transparency. The beams immediately penetrate deeply, and heating is performed rapidly and evenly with extremely short processing times. There is also a big reduction in energy consumption because the system does not have to be preheated. In addition, it takes up a lot less space.

adphosNIR®-technology; Adphos Group

Tulle-like DefeXtiles 3D printed: a new quasi-textile

MIT Media Lab graduate student Jack Forman used a standard, inexpensive 3D printer to produce sheets and complex 3D geometries with a woven-like structure based on the “glob-stretch” pattern produced by under-extrusion.
Forman works in the Tangible Media research group with Professor Hiroshi Ishii. “We envision that the materials of the future will be dynamic and computational,” says Ishii. “We call it ‘Radical Atoms.’ DefeXtiles is an excellent example of Radical Atoms, a programmable matter that emulates the properties of existing materials and goes beyond. We can touch, feel, wear, and print them.”


La minute de la texturgie n° 41 - January 2021

Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year: the fastest growing fiber group in textiles

For the first time ever, the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” will be granted to the innovative cellulose fiber industry for the development of new technologies and applications. Cellulose fibers are the fastest growing fiber group in textiles, the largest investment sector in the bio-based economy.
The “2nd International Conference on Cellulose Fibres” will cover the entire value chain from lignocellulosic feedstock, dissolving pulp, cellulose fibers — such as rayon, viscose, Modal, lyocell or new developments — to a wide range of applications, woven textiles (clothing) and non-wovens (wipes and technical applications). All these sectors have significantly gained momentum over the last few years.

Cellulose Foam by Stora Enso *Formerly known as Cellufoam

A process for reusing silk textiles and use it for high-performance thermal insulation

The practice of using recycled materials from other industries, such as post-consumer PET bottles, has been common practice in the textile industry for years. Freudenberg and Ratti are now re-using silk textiles from their own industry, the clothing industry, in a jointly developed process.
Airlaid technology plays a key role in the re-use of silk textiles, enabling Freudenberg to produce waddings with a three-dimensional structure from this material. This leads to excellent thermal insulation properties combined with exceptional breathability.

Silk textiles reused in high-performance insulation; Pic: Freudenberg

Call for action on textile wet processing

Water is crucial in textile production. Wet processing in particular – which involves bleaching, dyeing and printing fabrics – is heavily reliant on clean freshwater. It is often difficult to link the fashion brands to the wet processors causing harm.
Planet Tracker layers wet processing factory geolocation data and water risk scores. Critically, for the 740 publicly listed companies directly involved in wet processing activities identified in Planet Tracker’s report, the majority of their factories are concentrated in emerging markets with high water stress (principally India, Pakistan and China), and, consequently, subject to significant water risk.

Colour wet processing dyes textile; © The Sustainable Angle